History of the Steel Angel award

History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

2008

In 2008, the first international mountaineering festival took place in Uzunkol gorge, and that is where the first Open Women’s Mountaineering Cup took place. A unique steel figurine meticulously crafted from the beaks of ice axes, the Steel Angel, was first introduced as the main trophy for this competition.

The concept
for the trophy belongs to:

Irina Morozova, the creator of the Women’s Cup, Liana Darenskaya, the founder of the 'RISK On-site' magazine, and Arkady Klepinin. The initial prototype for the award was created by an Italian designer from Grivel.

History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award
History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

The first winners of the Steel Angel award

Ekaterina Matyushevskaya and Anastasia Ermishina for a series of ascents on the Open Women’s Mountaineering Cup:

  • Mt. Dalar, eastern wall, Kavunenko route, 5B (Russian Grades);
  • Mt. Dalar, Porokhnya route, 5B;
  • Northern Dolomite, Rybakov route, 5A;
  • Central Dolomite, Fesenko route, 4B;
  • Little Dolomite, Fesenko route, 3B.

Since 2009
the Steel Angel award has been given annually for the best ascent performed by a female team.

In 2009, Ekaterina Matyushevskaya and Irina Morozova became the first russian all-female-team to climb the entire hight technical rout by free climbing.

They made the free climbing ascent of the north face of Cime Grande di Lavaredo (2999 m, Dolomites, Italy), via Comici — Dimai route, 5.10c, UIAA VII all free climbing, ED. Nominees of the “Steel Angel” award 2009


History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

2010–2015

The routes completed by award nominees have evolved in both technical complexity and the range of locations.Female mountaineers embark on technically challenging ascents, pioneering new routes, and completing groundbreaking winter and first ascents.
From 2010 to 2023, Russian and international women’s teams have climbed 5 new routes of the highest difficulty levels (5B and 6A, Russian categories). Great Trango Tower (6251 m), Teng Kang Poche (Teng Kang Poche, 6487 m) in the Khumbu Valley, Nepal, Golden Sentinel (5200 m), Kamaylong (5870 m, China).

2016

In 2016, the first Lifetime Achievement Steel Angel Award was presented to Irina Morozova to recognize a career in which the spirit inspires the next generation of female climbers.

History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

2017

In 2017, the Steel Angel Award nominees included a European all-female team for the first time: Anastasija Bosiha and Aiga Rakēviča from Latvia.


2018-2021

From 2017 to 2021, women’s teams have climbed 4 new routes. These remarkable ascents are not just about reaching new heights but also breaking barriers and inspiring the community with courage and determination, they stand as a testament to human resilience and teamwork.

In 2021, Nadezhda Oleneva, Marina Popova, and Maria Djupina made the first ascent of an unnamed peak in Karavshin, “peak 4818,” which was later named Peak Sharp (VII+ (UIAA), 6b+/6c (fr), A3 (50 m), ED/ED+). 

This is the first time in Russia, a first ascent of a previously unconquered mountain was performed by an all-female team.

History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

2023

The 15th anniversary Steel Angel Award was presented.


In 2023, Galina Terentyeva and Olga Lukashenko became the second female climbers (after Lynn Hill) and the first all-female-team to climb the Perestroyka Crack rout (5.12-, 7b or 7а/A2, 1000 m) of Slesova peak (4240 m, Karavshin) by free climbing. Winners of the “Steel Angel” award 2023

History. “Steel Angel”: women’s climbing award

Some facts about the award

Here you can find all the first ascents of new routs shortlisted from 2008 to 2023

  1. Ptitsa peak, Ergaki, “Ekho” route, 5A (Russian grades)
    Polina Galatsevich, Elena Shneider (2009) 
  2. Zvyozdny peak, 5B (Russian grades)
    Svetlana Smaykina, Anastasiya Kovalyova (2009) 
  3. Great Trango Tower (6251 m), “Parallel world” route
    Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya, Galina Chibitok (2011) 
  4. Tengmoche (Teng Kang Poche, 6487 m), Khumbu valley, Nepal, “War for love” route, 6A-6B (Russian grades)
    Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok, Anastasiya Petrova (2013).  
  5. Golden Sentinel (5200 m), north-west wall, “Samurai’s daughter” route, approximately 6B (Russian grades), UIAA VI, A2-A3.
    Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok (2014).  
  6. Kamailong peak (5870 m), China, “On the way to Amsterdam” route, 6A (Russian grades), ED, 1280 m, A2, 6а-6b.
    Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok (2017).  
  7. Optimist peak (2660 m), western part of the mountain ridge Tunkinskiye Goltsy, Eastern Sayan, Chertolen-Gorhon gorge, route difficulty 4B (Russian grades)
    Alyona Panova, Ekaterina Repina, Nadezhda Oleneva (2018). 
  8. Ptitsa peak, Ergaki, center of the northern wall, approximately 5B (Russian grades)
    Daria Seryupova, Anastasiya Kozlova (2009) 
  9. Peak 4818 (peak Sharp), Karavshin, 5B (Russian grades), VII+ (UIAA), 6b+/6c (fr), A3 (50 m), ED/ED+).
    Nadezhda Oleneva, Marina Popova, Maria Djupina (2021)

Our mission is to empower women to achieve their best in climbing, while promoting the sport to welcome new members into our community.

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