Irina Morozova
Steel Angel award winner (2016)
Co-founder of the Steel Angel award.
- Mountaineering instructor.
- Nominee for the “Steel Angel” Award (2009 and 2018).
- Nominee for the “Crystal Peak” Award (2015 and 2018) in the “Outdoor Project of the Year” category.
- Creator of women’s rock climbing and ice
climbing festivals.
- Winner of the XIX International Adventure Film Festival “Vertical” in the “Adventure Film” category.
- Author of the book “Freeze the Moment” about mountains, life, and creativity.
Brief history of the mountaineering journey:
First ventured into the mountains in 1987. Graduated from the Russian School of Mountaineering Instructors in 1994.
In 2007, she completed the training course “Mountain Rescue” at the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
In 2006, completed her first ascent in a female duo — on Mt. Dzhailyk via the Northern slope, grade 4A / D, UIAA
IV. In 2008, became the ideological leader of women’s mountaineering in Russia and created the first Open Women’s Mountaineering Cup. The
“Steel Angel” was created as the main prize for this cup.
She created women’s projects, such as the first open women’s mountaineering festival “Dolomites Women” in the Italian Alps and subsequent festivals: “Lofoten Women” (Norway), “Jordan Women” (Wadi Rum, Jordan), “Zion Women” (USA), “Sakura Women” (Japan), as well as the Women’s Mountaineering School Kvaløya-2013 (Norway), winter expedition to Svalbard, etc.
Completed around 300 ascents in the Caucasus and Pamir, in the Khibiny Mountains and the Alps, in the mountains of Jordan, Norway, America, Japan, Svalbard, etc.
Some of her many fine ascents:
- 2009 — Free climbing of the north face of Cime Grande di Lavaredo (2999 m, Dolomites, Italy), via Comici — Dimai route, 5.10c, UIAA VII all free climbing (VI A0), ED. In a duo with Ekaterina Matyushevskaya (nominee for the “Steel Angel” Award 2009)
- 2010 — Ice climbing of the Henrikkafossen Spandalen Sør (Harstad, Norway), Ice or Mixed, 300 m, 5 (WI4/5) on Lower left side, (Øysten Cruikshank and Frank Dahle, 1991)
- 2010 —
First ascent of the south face of
Ørntinden (Kabelvåg, Lofoten,
Norway),
Ice or Mixed, 400 m,
WI 3
- 2011 — Free climbing
of the Orange Sunshine
route (max 6a)
of
Burdah Massif (Wadi Rum, Jordan)
- 2012 — Touchstone Wall route (R. Olevsky) of Cerberus Gendarme (Zion National Park, Utah, USA), 5.10a/b
Irina Morozova: In my climbing career, there were numerous other captivating ascents, even more challenging ones, but these particular ones have emerged as the most significant for me. This is because they possess a unique value, encompassing a fusion of factors like the distinctiveness of the area, harmony with my climbing partner, and the style of ascent. Furthermore, I hold routes climbed with free climbing as the most precious among all ascents.
Other significant projects
8 Hearts of the Dolomites
Cycle Through the 8 regions and Climb on 8 Mountains of the Dolomite Alps
Bike-mountaineering project in a female duo. Irina Morozova and Anastasija Bosiha covered 400 kilometers on bicycles through 8 regions of the Dolomite Alps in 20 days, carrying all the mountaineering equipment with them. They completed 8 ascents of the summits in each of the 8 regions, including 2 via ferratas, 1 hiking route, and five alpine routes.
- Croda da Lago (2701 m) via “Sinigaglia” route (L. Sinigaglia and P. Dimai, 1983), IV+ UIAA.
- Catinaccio (2981 m), route F. Devouassoud, C. Tucker, T.H. Carson, August 1874, PD, III+ UIAA.
- Cima Tosa (3173 m, Dolomiti di Brenta), PD, III UIAA.
- Tofana di Rozes (3225 m), classic route.
- Marmolada, Punta Penia (3342 m), PD alpine.
They climbed all routes using free climbing in the Fast& Light style.
Waste Food — no good!
One of the notable achievements is the three-week cycling tour in Norway as part of a social project “Waste Food — No Good!” The project aimed to raise awareness about the problem of discarding expired or defective food by consuming only such food discarded by stores throughout the journey. The aim was to encourage stores not to discard such items but, for instance, to set up special containers so that traveling students or low-income individuals could collect this food.
The film documenting this project received the award for the best adventure film at the XIX International Adventure Film Festival “Vertical” in March 2016.
Russian women’s mountaineering festivals 2009-2015
Free climbing of the north face of Cime Grande di Lavaredo
via “Comici — Dimai” route,
5.10c, UIAA VII
Croda da Lago via “Sinigaglia” rout (L.Sinigsglia, P.Dimai,1983), IV+ UIAA, TD-