Olga Lukashenko

Steel Angel award winner (2019, 2023).

International manager of the Steel Angel award

Multiple-time winner of mountaineering competitions, mountaineering instructor, IFMGA Aspirant-guide.

Member of the Russian national mountaineering team.

Olga has an adventurous spirit, which is why she has managed to earn three higher education degrees in Russia and Switzerland, creating an academic background that spans from physical chemistry to IT management. Currently, she’s living between Germany and France while working full-time in IT in the Czech Republic.

She’s also training to become an IFMGA guide, having already earned her aspirant guide certification from the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association—because why not add more to her already overflowing plate?

On top of all this, she’s a passionate enthusiast of architecture and music. Honestly, how she balances everything is a mystery that not only her boss and friends would like to solve, but also Olga herself.

Brief history of her journey in mountaineering:

She take up mountaineering at an age when most of her peers wisely choose to quit. Within a short period, she saw the snow-capped peaks of Ushba and the stunningly beautiful, formidable Bezengi Wall. It was love at first sight. The pivotal moment came with the ascent of Petit Dru in Chamonix; she suddenly realized that tackling challenging walls was not only possible but also enjoyable. Adventurism, an unstoppable desire to pursue a dream, natural endurance, and a passion for overcoming challenges did their work — the mountains pulled her in so deeply that she couldn’t help but continue.

Significant ascents:

First ascent of the Peak Ulun (5588 m, Kyzyl-Asker) via the counterfort of the South Face, 6A (Russian Alpine Grades)
Two first ascents in the Sabakh valley: Mt. Argo (4740m, ED, 7b, M5, А3+) and peak West Parus (4850m, ED-, 6c, M3, A2) [Recipients of the Grit & Rock Expedition Award]
Traverse Krumkol (4250 m) — Dykhtau (5204 m), Caucasus, 6B (Russian Alpine Grades)
Peak Slesova (4240 m, Karavshin), Perestroyka Crack, route 5.12-, 7b or 7a/A2, 1060 m (Faivre, Gentet, Givet, and Roche) in a pair with Galina Terentyeva (Steel Angel Award 2023)
Petit Dru (3733 m), West Face American Direttissima (G. Hemming, R. Robbin), VIII (VI+ obl)
Koshtan (5152 m), Caucasus, on the left side of the central icefall, 6A (Russian Alpine Grades)
Petites Jorasses (3650 m), Northwest Face, a combination of Anouk (M. Piola and V. Sprungli, 1990) and Contamine (A. Contamine, P. Labrun, M. Bron, 1955) routes, ED- 6c>6a+ A0 II P2 in a pair with Natalia Teplova (Steel Angel Award 2019)

Olga Lukashenko about Women’s Mountaineering:

“I am for mountaineering without any limitations! The mountains are beautiful; if someone decides to spend more time there, the essential igredients of their ‘mental cocktail’ are skills, ambitions, mental endurance, and respect for the mountains and people around. Their gender takes a back seat.

Well, to be serious, the main points are: women have a better ratio of technique/weight, their pain threshold is higher, their center of gravity, is lower, which makes their movements more precise and balanced. What is more, their fingers are thinner, and this is an undeniable advantage and the only salvation while climbing thin cracks. And they are simply beautiful!”

Pti-Zhoras (3650 m), NW wall, ED- 6c>6a+ A0 II P2 in a pair with Natalia Teplova (Steel Angel Award 2019).

Peak Slesova (4240 m, Karavshin), Perestroyka Crack route 5.12-, 7b or 7a/A2, 1000 m, (Faivre, Gentet, Givet, and Roche) in a pair with Galina Terentyeva

First ascent of Peak Ulun (5588 m, Kyzyl-Asker) via the counterfort of the South wall, 6A (Russian Alpine Grades).