Women’s Mountaineering School
The idea of creating the Women’s Mountaineering School first emerged back in 2007. Throughout all the years that the Steel Angel Award was developing, the idea of the Women’s School was gradually taking shape.
Finally, in 2026, we decided to bring the project to life.
Steel Angel recipients who are also qualified mountaineering instructors will teach and share their experience.
The first School module will take place in April 2027 as part of Steel Angel Camp “Morocco — 2027”.
Steel Angel Camp “Morocco — 2027”
Steel Angel Camp is a climbing and mountaineering camp open to everyone — women and men, as well as mixed teams and climbing partnerships. The Women’s Mountaineering School is one of the programmes within the camp, with a dedicated module for women.
Women from different countries are especially welcome to join the Steel Angel Camp. Bring your own project and team to climb, explore new routes, share experience and spend time together in the mountains.
April. First block
Taghia — Establishing a New Route
A module for those who want to try the expedition format and take part in establishing a new route — from exploring and selecting a line to opening it from the ground up, bolting and cleaning the rock.
The goal is not simply to reach the top of a new line, but to create a route that will be enjoyable, logical and appealing for future climbers.
April. Second block
Mount Toubkal — Snow and Ice Module
This block is for those who want to take a step from rock climbing into classical mountaineering. After Taghia, there will be an opportunity to travel to the High Atlas and climb Mount Toubkal (4,167 m).
But if the thought of walking through snow after Taghia no longer appeals, the Morocco expedition can simply end after the first block, with departure from Marrakech.
School Organizers in Morocco
Irina Morozova
Co-founder and recipient of the Steel Angel Award. Organizer of training camps, expeditions, women’s climbing festivals and the Women’s Mountaineering School in Norway (2014). Category II mountaineering instructor.
Oksana Kochubey
Master of Sport in classical mountaineering and recipient of the 2025 Steel Angel Award for a first ascent in the Indian Himalayas as part of an all-female team. Category III mountaineering instructor.
Questions?
Taghia region
Taghia is a region of big walls and trad climbing routes that still offers considerable potential for establishing new lines.
Level
A minimum climbing level of 5c on lead is required, both indoors and on natural rock. Previous multipitch experience is mandatory, as are ropework and safety skills, including rappelling, tying knots and handling a rope, as well as the ability to safely belay both a leader and a second.
What you will take away from the module
- practical experience of establishing a new climbing route from the ground up
- experience in route finding, wall strategy and big-wall tactics
- experience in route cleaning and preparing the line for future free ascents
- experience in organizing work on the wall and distributing roles within a team
- practical experience with bolting, anchors and rope systems
- the ability to assess the difficulty and character of a new route
- experience in documenting a new route and preparing a topo
- a certificate confirming completion of the module in accordance with the FAR mountaineering training programme
Programme:
- expedition-style approach to the gorge
- multipitch climbing
- working on the wall and adapting to vertical terrain
- selecting and exploring a new line
- establishing a route from the ground up
- bolting and cleaning the rock
- preparing the route for future free ascents
What you will learn:
- planning work on the wall
- big-wall tactics
- teamwork and distribution of roles
- decision-making under fatigue and load
- reading the terrain and choosing a line
- organizing belays and self-belays
- writing route descriptions
Preliminary Programme
The programme is subject to change.
Day 1
Arrival in Marrakech. Walk around the city. Overnight in Marrakech.
Day 2
Departure from Marrakech by minibus to Zaouia Ahanesal.
In Zaouia Ahanesal, luggage and equipment are loaded onto mules, followed by the trek into Taghia through the canyon.
In the evening, introduction to the topos at the guesthouse and discussion of the programme and plans for the following days.
Day 3
The first 2–3 hours are spent climbing shorter routes (6a–6b) to warm up and get a feel for the rock.
Big-wall tactics session in the same sector.
Cultural programme in the evening.
Day 4
Training on the rock of the selected wall: changing leads, building and organizing belay stations and planning work on the wall.
Together with the instructors, we take binoculars to study the wall and identify and mark the line of the future route — marking it both in pencil in the guidebook and visually on the wall. We select the location for the first bolt.
Cultural programme in the evening.
Day 5-6
The leader climbs the line, placing bolts and establishing belay stations and protection points.
The rest of the team follows on ascenders, cleaning the rock and removing lichen, soil and vegetation, preparing the route for future free ascents.
Day 7
Final rope work, removal of fixed lines and the first ascent.
If possible, the route will be climbed entirely free.
Assessment of the route’s difficulty, choosing a name and preparing the topo.
Day 8-9
Multipitch routes on the neighbouring walls and, if the new line requires further work, continuing to establish and clean the route.
Day 10
Departure from Taghia and transfer to Imlil, approximately 6–7 hours.
Check-in at a traditional Berber guesthouse (riad).
Day 11
Ascent to Les Mouflons Refuge (3,207 m)
Day 12
Early start. The ascent of Mount Toubkal (4,167 m) takes approximately four hours.
Descent to the refuge, lunch and packing. Return to Imlil.
Day 13
Transfer to the airport and departure.
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