The 16th Steel Angel went to Slovenia

Sonia Casas Torcida (Spain)

member of the expert jury

It was really difficult for me to make my choice, as all the nominations were really amazing. The high technical and sporting level of all the climbers is outstanding!

I have followed the award criteria, hotlining a first ascent to an unclimbed mountain. A first ascent requires a huge amount of determination, it involves a great deal of commitment and engagement, as there is no prior information about the mountain or the climb. The great uncertainty of the possible outcome is an additional risk, as well as the additional emotional burden to cope with. The added commitment of climbing at the altitude, the added risk of crossing glaciers, the isolation of a remote valley: they all add weight to any decision. Weather conditions can change absolutely everything. Also, the style needs being considered.

So, taking on account all these things, I did my choice, and I wish you all the best luck. I wish you the best. And I thank you all for being such a good reference for all of us: women, climbers, alpinists, and for the climbing community in general.

Lydia Bradey (New Zeland)

member of the expert jury

First ascent of Argo Peak North Face, Ashat Gorge, and first ascent of Lalung I  — I speak about these two ascents together as they share so many qualities of Vision. Without vision, neither of these beautiful ascents would have been imagined and completed.

Vision extends beyond seeing an untouched line of weakness on a big wall, or finding a mountain that has never been climbed. Vision extends beyond the immediate surrounds, encompassing the logistics of approach and the complex identification of what to carry on the climb. Vision demands an accurate estimation of the level of technical skill and significant strength that will be demanded in this unknown place, and a deeply honest and intelligent appraisal of ones own strength and skills.

Vision is involved in the “What-If”s.

In these places, rescue is delayed at best. To comprehend the commitment of the alpinistes on Lalung I, it is illegal to take ANY form of communication into Lahdak as it is a Military zone. No Sat phone, no locator beacon, no GPS, and thus, no weather forecasting. In addition, although the highest intensity of technical mixed and rock climbing was not demanded on every metre of Lalung I, the climbing is at 6000m — significantly increasing the “grade-effect”. The level of both physical and emotional commitment would have ever increased as the climbers progressed up the ridge.

On these two climbs their Vision extends into Beauty. Argo North Face is a strong line up a remote and imposing wall, in a little-known area. The images and topographic map of the Argo route draw the reader in to imagine the power of this cirque. The constantly changing terrain and technical difficulties on this first ascent were dispatched effectively, and the initial lower angled terrain managed well. Once again this proves the efficiency of a team of three on a big wall.

Style: Both lines sing not just for the strength and impressive technical abilities but also for the bravery and tenacity of these women climbers who understood the scope of their own skills. Climbed in very different styles, these mountains were climbed with joy, efficacy and vision.

The Argo North Face and Lalung I ascents will continue to inspire women to step up, train up, and go outside into the beautiful mountains of the world, and climb.

Valery Babanov

The technical difficulty of the route is not the main criterion. Although the first ascent of Lalung may not match many others in terms of technical difficulty, it most fully embodies the Spirit of the Steel Angel—a beautiful and logical route line to a high summit, a safe route, completed by a duo autonomously in a remote area.

Michael Levy (USA)

member of the expert jury, editor and publisher of Summit Journal, media partner of the Steel Angel award

All of the nominees for this year’s Steel Angel award completed fantastic ascents that deserve recognition, but there is one among them that is particularly impressive and noteworthy. The first ascent of Lalung I, by Slovenians Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev, is a singularly beautiful climb that contains everything an alpinist could hope for in the mountains: a virgin peak over 6,000 meters, an elegant line full of complexity, engaging and difficult terrain, and just enough adversity from weather and duration that it never felt easier than it should have. The complicated east ridge offered high-difficulty mixed and ice climbing and the full bag of an alpinist’s tricks. The style—free except for rappels off of towers—was impeccable, and the team managed objective dangers with good risk analysis and cool heads, demonstrating the patience that the best alpinists display throughout their careers again and again.

The first ascent on the north face of Argo Peak, by Olga Lukashenko, Anastasia Kozlova, Darya Serupova, all from Russia, is a close second place for me. The upper half of the wall in particular looks to have provided a formidable challenge, requiring the team to move methodically while still climbing to a remarkably high degree of difficulty.

The other nominated climbs are all great achievements and important milestones for all-women teams in the mountains. The Mt. Chegem and Mt. Ushba ascents are beautiful ascents on stunning peaks, and would be lifetime ascents for most climbers.The first all-women ascents of iconic lines like Filo Sureste on Cerro Torre and Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower are important in particular for the inspiration they provide for future women teams to aim high and aim big. However, the novelty—both first ascents, one of them on a previously unclimbed peak; the beauty—striking, logical, and bold lines on aesthetic features; and the style—fast and light, mostly free, on ambitious objectives—of the Lalung and Argo routes are undeniable and the reason that they rise above the rest.